Appliance Repair Jax is an independent appliance service company. We are not affiliated with, authorized by, or endorsed by Sub-Zero Group, Inc., or any other manufacturer named on this site. All brand names, model numbers and trademarks are the property of their respective owners and are used here only to identify the appliances we service.
SINGLE · DOUBLE · STACKED
Ovens that run hot, cold, slow or not at all, plus door, latch, convection and control board faults on single, double and stacked built-in ovens.
40-mile radius$129 diagnostic90-day labor warranty
Sound familiar?
Heat problems come from three places: the sensor, the heat source, or the door.
The sensor is a resistance probe in the cavity, usually at the upper left rear. Its resistance rises predictably with temperature and the control board turns that number into a temperature. As the probe ages the relationship drifts. A few degrees of drift shows up as slow preheat. Twenty degrees shows up as cookies that scorch on the bottom and cakes that sink. Nothing sounds broken, which is why people live with it for two years.
On electric ovens the heat source is a sheathed element, and elements fail the honest way: they blister, arc and open. Bake elements in built-ins are frequently hidden under the oven floor, so a dead bake element presents as an oven that browns the top of everything and cooks nothing through. On gas built-ins it is the hot surface igniter, and its failure mode is the one that misleads people. The igniter sits in series with the gas safety valve. The valve opens only when the igniter draws its rated current. An aging carbide igniter still glows bright orange while drawing too little to open the valve, so the customer sees light and no fire and assumes the valve is bad.
The door is the quiet third cause. A crushed or hardened gasket, or a hinge whose spring has taken a set, leaves the door sitting a millimeter proud. That vents cavity heat past the glass, drives long preheat times, cooks the touch panel above it and eventually takes out the control.
Self-clean is the other reliable creator of work. The cycle is legitimate, but it runs the cavity far hotter than baking ever does and it exposes anything marginal — the thermal fuse, the latch motor, a tired relay on the board.
We measure rather than infer. A calibrated thermocouple goes into the cavity, the oven is set to a normal baking temperature, and we log the preheat curve and then the cycling band over the following hour. That single test separates a drifted sensor from a weak element from a leaking door, because each produces a different shaped curve.
The sensor gets read cold and at temperature and compared against its published resistance table. Gas igniters get an amp clamp, not a look. Elements get an ohm reading and a visual on the terminals, where the burn usually is. On control complaints we check supply on both legs of the 240-volt circuit before condemning a board, and we look at the cooling fan and the vent path, because an oven built into a run of panel-ready cabinetry will cook its own electronics if that path is blocked.
Cabinet protection first. Faces get covered, the floor gets covered, and the oven comes out onto a support rather than onto its own door. Trim screws are documented as they come out because the shim stack that made the oven sit flush in the opening has to go back the same way.
We install genuine OEM parts. Elements, probes and igniters are model-specific, and a generic igniter with a different current draw will start the same problem again in a year. After any heat-related repair the oven is recalibrated and run through a full preheat and bake cycle with the thermocouple still in the cavity, so the invoice reflects a measured result and not a hopeful one.
Nearly always, and the reason is the cabinet. Built-in ovens are sized to a cut-out that a carpenter built around them, and cut-out dimensions change between manufacturers and between generations of the same manufacturer. Replacing a single built-in oven often means cabinet rework, new trim, and matching the finish of the ovens and warming drawers stacked with it.
Against that, a probe, an element or an igniter is a small repair. The one case where we advise against spending is a discontinued control board with no remaining supply and no reliable rebuild. We will tell you that on the first visit.
Independent service, based in Fruit Cove. Mon–Fri 8am–6pm, Sat 9am–4pm. Call +1 (904) 977-8701.
Brands
Ultra luxury United States (Fitchburg, Wisconsin)
Wolf builds cooking equipment only. We service the ranges, rangetops, cooktops, wall ovens, steam and speed ovens, coffee systems and hoods that carry the name.
Luxury United States (Greenwood, Mississippi)
Viking created the professional-style home range. We service the ranges and rangetops, plus the built-in refrigeration, ventilation and dishwashers that go with them.
Luxury United States and Germany (BSH Home Appliances)
Thermador spans cooking, refrigeration and dishwashing. Star Burner ranges, Freedom induction, Masterpiece ovens and the panel-ready Freedom columns behind cabinet doors.
Luxury Germany
Miele puts more appliances in a luxury kitchen than any other brand. We service the refrigeration, the ovens, the dishwashers, the coffee systems and the laundry.
Ultra luxury Germany
Gaggenau is the most demanding brand in a luxury kitchen to diagnose properly. We service the ovens, Vario cooktops, combi-steam, cooling columns and wine cabinets.
Luxury United States
GE Appliances' luxury line, sold through design showrooms. We repair Monogram built-in and integrated refrigeration, Professional ranges, Advantium speed ovens, hoods and dishwashers.
Luxury United States
Whirlpool's luxury brand and the originator of the downdraft range. We repair JennAir wall ovens, pro-style ranges, cooktops, built-in refrigeration and dishwashers.
Luxury United States
Samsung-backed American brand founded in Pasadena. We repair Dacor Modernist, Professional and Contemporary cooking and refrigeration, plus legacy Epicure and Renaissance equipment.
Luxury New Zealand
New Zealand brand, Haier-owned, spanning refrigeration, cooking, dishwashing and laundry. We repair DishDrawer, CoolDrawer, ActiveSmart and Series 9 integrated units.
Premium Sweden
Scandinavian dishwashers and laundry that most local shops will not touch. We service Asko door balance systems, pumps, heaters, controls and drum suspensions.
Premium Italy
Family-owned Italian range maker from Guastalla, building cooking equipment since 1882. We repair Bertazzoni ranges, wall ovens, cooktops, hoods, dishwashers and refrigeration.
Try this first
Some of it you can genuinely sort out yourself in ten minutes. We would rather you did than paid us to.
Maintenance
Month by month, by appliance type, tuned to Northeast Florida pollen, humidity and storm season. What genuinely extends appliance life and what does nothing.
Installation Pro only
Riverside, Avondale, Old Ortega and San Marco kitchens were not built for 48-inch built-ins. What to measure, what to rewire, and what the floor will carry.
Cost & warranty
Magnuson-Moss stated accurately, both halves. What a manufacturer cannot do, what it still can, and when to call the factory instead of an independent.
Usually your thermometer, and usually by a predictable amount. Built-in ovens sense temperature with a resistance probe whose readings drift as it ages, and the control follows the probe. We log actual cavity temperature against setpoint through a full cycle, then either correct the calibration offset or replace the probe, depending on how the curve looks.
A glowing igniter is not a working igniter. The safety valve only opens when the igniter draws enough current through the circuit, and a carbide igniter weakens with age long before it stops glowing. We put an amp clamp on it. If it is under spec the igniter gets replaced, not the valve.
No. Self-clean drives the cavity far above normal cooking temperature and that heat is what finds weak components. The usual casualties are the thermal fuse, the door latch motor and a relay on the control board. Tell the technician you ran a clean cycle. It shortens the diagnosis considerably.
No. Under the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act a manufacturer cannot void your warranty simply because an independent company did the work or a non-branded part was fitted. What it does not mean is that the manufacturer will pay us for labor on an in-warranty repair. If your oven is still inside its factory warranty, call the manufacturer first and let them cover it.
We stock the parts that actually fail — temperature sensors, hot surface igniters, common elements, thermal fuses and blower motors. Control boards, doors and glass are model and often serial specific, so those get ordered against your data plate after the diagnosis rather than guessed at.
Sensor, igniter and element work is usually done from the front with the door and liner panels off. Blower motors, boards and wiring at the rear need the unit out of the cabinet. A double oven is heavy and awkward, so that is a two-technician job with the cabinet faces and the floor protected before anything moves.
Customer feedback
Rated 4.8 out of 5 across 72 customer reviews. These three describe this job in particular.
Thaddeus K.Nov 12, 2025
The convection fan had become noisy enough to hear across the kitchen. He replaced the fan motor and the rear baffle. It is quiet again, though the first appointment was pushed back a day, which was inconvenient.
Cormac S.Jun 1, 2026
The double oven threw a lock fault after every self clean. The latch motor cam had worn flat. He replaced the assembly and suggested running the lower cavity clean less aggressively. There has been no fault since.
Anneliese P.Mar 7, 2026
The oven would preheat and then drift down through a bake. He tested the element draw, found the bake element open at one end and the sensor reading high, changed both and calibrated against his own probe before leaving.
Where we do this work
Talk to a technician
Read us the model and serial number off the data plate along with what it is doing. That is usually enough for us to tell you what we expect to find.