Appliance Repair Jax — +1 (904) 977-8701 — independent appliance repair in Jacksonville, FL. # Ice Maker and Undercounter Ice Machine Repair Booking is by telephone on +1 (904) 977-8701 or at https://nexfield.pro/crm/book?u=44. Source: https://jaxapplianceservice.com/services/ice-maker-repair/ No ice, hollow cubes, or water pooling under the unit. We work through the whole chain from water pressure to the fill tube and the sealed system. ## What we get called out for - Ice maker stopped making ice completely - Cubes are small, hollow or cloudy - Ice is coming out with a strange taste or smell - Water pooling on the floor under the undercounter unit - A solid block of ice frozen in the ice mold - The bin fills once and then never refills - Loud grinding or knocking when it cycles - Ice cubes are frozen together in one clump - The unit runs but the water never fills - New filter installed and it still will not make ice ## Typical repairs - Water inlet valve replacement and supply pressure testing - Frozen fill tube clearing and fill tube heater replacement - Ice maker module, shut-off arm and rudder arm replacement - Water filter replacement and filter housing repair - Drain line clearing and drain pump repair on plumbed units - Thermostat, thermistor and cycle control replacement - Condenser cleaning on undercounter and built-in platforms - Evaporator and condenser fan motor replacement - Bin level and bin sensor correction - Sealed system repair on undercounter ice machines ## What usually fails An ice maker is a chain. Water leaves the house supply, passes a shut-off valve, passes a filter (sometimes two, if there is a whole-house unit nobody remembers), reaches an electric inlet valve, travels a fill tube, drops into a mold, freezes, gets ejected, and lands in a bin with its own level sensing. A break anywhere reads to the owner as "the ice maker is broken." It usually is not. The failures we actually find: **Water supply and filtration.** Low pressure is the most under-diagnosed cause, and it announces itself with small or hollow cubes rather than with no ice at all. Right behind it is a filter that has done its job for two years and is now a restriction. Sub-Zero publishes filter part numbers by platform: 4204490 and 9030868 are twist-in filters covering Classic, Designer and PRO refrigeration, 7045454 is the current Classic push-in filter, and 7042803 is the NSF certified filter for the UC-15I undercounter ice maker. **A frozen fill tube.** Water dribbles instead of filling, the tube ices closed from the tip back, and production stops entirely. This is common and it is fixable. **Temperature.** The ice maker will not run if the freezer is not cold enough. Sub-Zero's threshold is at or below 5°F, and they recommend 0°F. A freezer sitting at 12°F because its condenser is packed with dust will make no ice at all, and swapping the ice maker will change nothing. **The mechanical bits.** A shut-off arm left in the up position, a missing white plastic rudder arm, a bin that is not seated level, or a jam from cubes that fused during a slow cycle. These are cheap failures with a large nuisance value. **The sealed system**, on standalone undercounter machines. A UC-15I is a self-contained refrigeration unit rated to produce up to 50 pounds of ice a day and store 25 pounds, drawing 115 VAC on a dedicated 15 amp circuit. When its compressor or evaporator fails, it needs a refrigeration technician, not an appliance parts swap. ## How we diagnose it We work the chain in order rather than starting at the ice maker, because starting at the ice maker is how people end up paying for a module that was never the problem. Water pressure and flow at the unit come first, measured, not guessed. Then the filter, its age and its seating. Then the inlet valve — coil resistance and actual fill volume on a timed cycle. Then the fill tube for ice. Then freezer temperature taken with our own probe rather than off the display, and if it is high we go look at the condenser before anything else. Only after all of that do we test the ice maker itself: module, mold heater, thermostat or thermistor, ejector, shut-off arm and bin sensing. On a standalone undercounter machine we add condenser condition, fan draw, drain routing and pump function, and where warranted, sealed system pressures. ## What the repair involves Most ice maker jobs finish on the first visit. Inlet valves, fill tube heaters, filters, rudder arms and shut-off arms are small parts and we carry the common ones. A frozen fill tube is cleared with controlled warmth, never with a screwdriver or boiling water — puncturing a fill tube or a drain heater turns a one-hour visit into a much larger repair. Undercounter machines usually have to come out of the cutout, which exposes the surrounding cabinetry, the toe kick and the floor. In a Fruit Cove bar area that stone or wood floor is worth more than the machine, so it gets protected before anything moves. Plumbed units get their supply and drain reconnected and pressure-checked, and we run a full harvest cycle so you see ice before we leave. Sealed system repairs on undercounter ice machines are performed in your home by EPA Section 608 certified technicians. The EPA classifies under-the-counter ice makers as small appliances, so that certification is a federal requirement, not a marketing line. ## When it is worth repairing For an ice maker built into a Sub-Zero refrigerator, the answer is nearly always yes. The parts are inexpensive relative to the cabinet they live in, and none of the failure implicates the refrigerator itself. For a standalone undercounter machine, the deciding factor is whether the sealed system is intact. Valves, pumps, fans, boards and thermostats are all straightforward repairs on a unit that is otherwise sound, and a well-kept undercounter machine runs for well over a decade. A compressor failure on a fifteen-year-old machine is a closer call, and we will give you the honest arithmetic rather than the arithmetic that favors us. One thing worth doing either way: if the unit is plumbed and drains to a pump, check the drain routing annually. Most of the water damage we get called to in bar and pantry installations traces back to a drain, not to a refrigeration fault. ## Questions people ask **How long should I wait before deciding the ice maker is broken?** A full 24 hours after a power interruption, a filter change or a temperature change. The freezer has to reach temperature before the ice maker will cycle at all, and Sub-Zero specifies the freezer must be at or below 5°F, with 0°F recommended. Judging it at hour six will send you down the wrong path. **Why are my ice cubes small or hollow?** That specific symptom points at low water pressure, not at the ice maker itself. Sub-Zero calls this out directly. The usual causes are a partially closed supply valve, a clogged or expired water filter, an expired whole-house filter nobody has changed, or genuinely low pressure at the house, which is a plumber's job rather than ours. **The ice maker in my built-in refrigerator stopped. Is it the ice maker?** Often it is not. The chain runs from the house supply valve through the filter, the inlet valve, the fill tube, the mold and the ejector, and any link breaks the whole thing. A frozen fill tube and an expired filter are both more common than a failed ice maker module. We test the chain in order rather than replacing the obvious part first. **Do you service standalone undercounter ice machines?** Yes. Undercounter ice machines are a large part of this work, including the Sub-Zero UC-15I and UC-15IP with drain pump, the older 315I, and units from Scotsman, U-Line, Perlick, Marvel and True Residential. These are sealed refrigeration systems and fall under EPA Section 608, which our technicians hold. **Why is there water on the floor under my ice machine?** The usual causes are a blocked or misrouted drain line, a failed drain pump on a pumped installation, a leaking inlet valve, or a fill tube that overshoots the mold and spills. On an undercounter unit the water often tracks under the cabinet before it appears, so what you see on the floor is rarely where the leak starts. **Can I use a generic replacement water filter?** We would not. Filters are model-specific, and the wrong housing fit causes bypass, leaks or restricted flow that starves the ice maker. Sub-Zero publishes its own part numbers, including 7042803 for the UC-15I undercounter ice maker, and we install genuine OEM filters rather than aftermarket equivalents. --- Hours: Mon–Fri 8am–6pm · Sat 9am–4pm. Telephone and online booking are the only ways to reach us — there is no contact form and no published email address. Appliance Repair Jax is an independent appliance service company. We are not affiliated with, authorized by, or endorsed by Sub-Zero Group, Inc., or any other manufacturer named on this site. All brand names, model numbers and trademarks are the property of their respective owners and are used here only to identify the appliances we service.